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Praise soars to the rafters—a regard for acoustics is clearly in disfavor at ObLaDi, the architectural firm which designed the space—for even the most pedestrian dish (DeLauria’s “Chunky Bunny” is simply a saddle of rabbit cooked for six hours in a tub of Armour lard; on a chill winter’s night there might not be a better dish in the city), but when DeLauria takes one of his more brazen steps above the parapet (Newfoundland heritage moose braised in elderflower octopus gelée), you expect the room to unite in a standing ovation for its returning headliner.
— We try our hand at “Tables for Two.” | The Awl —Balk nails the tone. Most telling single word here: “heritage.”
